Madison County barbecue: the regional style
Madison County, Illinois — the county that contains Granite City and the broader metro-east region just across the Mississippi from St. Louis — has a regional barbecue tradition that's distinct from but related to the better-known St. Louis BBQ style across the river. Madison County smokehouse cooking is generally hardwood-smoked (post-oak, hickory, and pecan are the standard woods), slow-cooked over 8-14 hours for the larger cuts, and finished with relatively light sauce application that allows the smoke flavor to dominate. The St. Louis-style influence shows up most clearly in the rib preparation (cut into the distinctive St. Louis style with the rib tips trimmed off) and in the use of vinegar-and-tomato sauces that lean more vinegary than the sweet Kansas City profile.
Smokin' Z's executes this Madison County style competently. The smoker is fired with post-oak and hickory as the primary woods, the briskets and pork shoulders get long overnight smokes, and the ribs are cut St. Louis-style with the trimmings used elsewhere on the menu. Sauces are house-made and offered as table condiments rather than applied heavily in the kitchen — the standard signature sauce is a moderately-sweet tomato-vinegar base with mild heat, and there's typically a hotter alternative sauce available for diners who want it.
The result is barbecue that's recognizably regional rather than generic chain-restaurant style. Diners familiar with the Memphis, Kansas City, or Texas barbecue traditions will find Smokin' Z's distinct from all of those — closer to St. Louis than any other major style but with its own Madison County variations. The smoke flavor is forward, the meats are tender without being mushy, and the portion sizes are generous in the working-class neighborhood-restaurant tradition.